Jeffrey Weiss

I think making coats must be in my genes. One of my grandfathers was a tailor for the Hapsburg Emperor Franz Josef, later becoming a coat manufacturer in the United States. Although he retired from business when I was only 6 years old, I had a chance to watch him and somehow learned from his sense of craftsmanship. My grandmother used to make sweaters for me, showing me catalogs so I could pick the style I wanted. I'd say, "I like this sweater, but could you make some changes?" I'd end up with a sleeve from one style, a collar from another. My father is a fine artist working primarily in watercolors. I used to watch him for hours, painting and painstakingly applying layers of transparent watercolor to achieve the right effect. He is currently also my standby artist!

I was always fascinated by colors. I used to go rock hunting as a child and in junior high school did cloisonné work. In high school and college I got involved with painting, and eventually that led to a number of art exhibitions in New York, including one with my father. Meanwhile, being an avid skier, I kept seeing pictures in my mind of lots of bright colors against white backgrounds. That later inspired my first ski jacket ­ with primary and complementary colors on a white background - of course!

At some point, someone I knew asked me to help make some hand painted T-shirts for her friends. This led to store sales in New York's East Village and a subsequent commission for T-shirt designs for the grand stands at the New York City Marathon for the Seiko Watch Company.

I entitled one of my first jackets "Piano Keys" after an earlier painting of mine. I will always remember how Eartha Kitt admired it at a group painting show at Columbia University. Until then, my palette was mostly primary colors and not until later did I begin to use more varied shades or muted tones. In part, it was by exhibiting at craft shows and listening to my customers that I gained a broader appreciation of color on people.

At this time, some of my coats still explore just black or white using plays on texture and on varied fabrics. For instance, I have a design entitled "Mobiles" which I use on waterproof microfiber. Microfiber is a fabulous fabric that feels like both suede and silk at the same time. The reverse-appliqué inserts are made of dull but silky rubberized cotton and by applying satiny silk rayon roping, arching it gracefully back and forth across the coat. There is a great deal of eye movement and motion in this design, somewhat reminiscent of Alexander Calder's Mobiles.

As an artist, I am convinced that wearable art is one of the most accessible of mediums. Many people see my designs whenever someone is wearing one of my garments outdoors.

Today I take pleasure in, for example, creating just-right folds that are stiffened with various interfacings, using linen and luxurious silk linings to create an "ideal crisp softness", custom-fitting my clients and in treating them to the best craftsmanship that can envelop a piece of wearable art.